^ Quoted in Halliwell's Filmgoer's Companion (10th ed. 1993) edited by John Walker. Almost 70 years after Lombard's death, the Sunday Times described red lipstick as the "ne plus ultra [not further beyond] of make up ... We respect red lipstick as a badge of loveliness and youth (Georgia May), bold style (Florence Welch), sexual confidence (Scarlett Johansson) and old-school glamour (Rosie Huntington-Whiteley) – and, above all, we appreciate that it doesn't work for everyone": Shane Watson in Style, 4 December 2011.
^ Rhoda Marley to Clive FitzWatters and Harold Twine in Travers, Rookery Nook, chapter XII. Offering to assist her, Clive had suggested to Twine that "it will be more or less guess-work on my part – in the bag put one pair of thin com – er – lady's summer underwear". Rhoda asked if Twine "could just manage a pair of cami-knickers and a Princess petticoat". As early as 1920, in Travers' début novel The Dippers, Pauline Dipper's "black silk petticoat [did not] extend unduly, and it was possible to esteem the shapely outline of calf and instep, compressed in stockings of the same material" (chapter III). Also in The Dippers, a young woman tried to start a conversation about "hygienic underclothing for ladies" with a man she mistakenly believed to have written articles on the subject: "I wanted to speak to you about something delicate ... this is not a subject one can discuss in public. People have such conventional ideas" (Helen Monk to Henry Talboyes, chapter VIII).
The documentary film, Festival (Murray Lerner, 1967), recorded how the "clean-cut college kids" who attended the Newport (Rhode Island) Folk Festival in 1963-4 had, by 1965 (when Bob Dylan caused a sensation at that year's festival by playing an electric guitar), become "considerably scruffier": "the hippies were waiting to be born".[88] Among other things, the wearing of male neckties, which, in the mid-1960s, had often drawn on 19th century paisley patterns,[13] declined as muttonchop whiskers and teashades (sunglasses) came in: by the time of the Chicago 7 trial (late 1969), hair over the collars had become so commonplace that it was beginning to transcend Bohemian style, taking on mass popularity in the 1970s. The London art dealer Jeremy Maas reflected in the mid-1980s that
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Others favoured the lower-cut, tighter styles of continental stars such as Bardot or Gina Lollobrigida. Valerie Hobson was among those whose wardrobe drew on Italian couture; in addition to a large collection of stiletto heeled shoes, she possessed a skirt made from python skin.[101] More generally, European tastes – including the Lambretta motor scooter and Italian and French cuisine, which the widely travelled cookery writer Elizabeth David, herself a bit of a Bohemian, did much to promote[102] – not only began to pervade Bohemian circles, but offered a contrast, from 1955 onwards, with the brasher Americanism of rock 'n' roll, with its predominantly teenage associations.

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